The journey started with my observation as I lay in my bunk, witnessing my wife as she transitioned from her bed to the cabin floor, then swiftly turned towards the door leading to the toilet. The dim light from the Midlands softly illuminated the scene, guiding her to the handle as she entered.
Little did we know, by placing our bags in the cubicle, we unintentionally triggered the overhead shower to unexpectedly drench my wife and our belongings when she squeezed in.
Her cries of dismay from being soaked jolted me awake, dispelling any romantic notions of the Caledonian Sleeper night train that I had idealized. Despite its charm in connecting London with the scenic cities and Highlands of Scotland, the reality of the journey was far from the luxurious night train experience I had imagined.
Reflecting on this incident, I do not intend to criticize the Sleeper service, which offers breathtaking views of snow-capped mountains and shimmering lochs on the northbound route. The cost-effectiveness and eco-friendly nature of the journey compared to a flight and hotel stay are commendable aspects.
However, returning to a damp pillow near a standard National Rail toilet, unnecessary in the private cabins, was not the sophisticated adventure I had envisioned. Nor was the awkward encounter of commuters at Euston platform staring at me in my pajamas at 6 am.
Two years later, my wife and I embarked on the SJ night train at Stockholm Central Station, embarking on one of Europe’s longest train voyages. The Narvik Stockholm night train, also known as Nattåg 94, links the Swedish capital to Narvik in Norway, covering over 1,500 kilometers round-trip, with an 18-hour journey from Stockholm Central Station.
Rather than hugging the coast of the Gulf of Bothnia, the train takes a direct route from Stockholm, traversing Sweden’s vast forests, flatlands, and swamps.
The final destination, Narvik, holds historical significance for WWII enthusiasts, as it served as a strategic port for the British Navy’s crucial operations against Nazi ships, marking a significant turning point in the war.
The area’s importance was driven by the abundant iron ore reserves in Kiruna, the northernmost Swedish city, which supplies 90% of Europe’s iron ore. The trainline from Kiruna to Narvik, dating back to 1902, played a vital role in fueling the war efforts of both Allied and Axis powers.
In March, I boarded the sleeper to Kiruna, just two hours short of the final stop but well within the Arctic Circle, and the experience was nothing short of fantastic.
Upon entering our second-class private cabin, I was pleasantly surprised by the clever space-saving design, with three bunks that could be folded back into the wall. The flexibility allowed us to create a comfortable seating area when not sleeping, enjoying the Swedish countryside passing by, including quirky sights like Bastuträsk (sauna swamp).
While the Swedish landscape may not rival the grandeur of the Scottish Highlands, its diverse beauty from expansive lakes to ancient forests and mountain ranges is equally captivating. The vintage feel of the train, with its nostalgic touches like Bakelite radio alarm clocks, added a unique charm to the journey.
Unlike the Caledonian Sleeper’s cramped bathroom, the SJ train offered a well-equipped shower area at the end carriage, complete with fresh towels and amenities for a refreshing experience. After a restful night’s sleep and a refreshing shower, I eagerly explored the buffet car, enjoying the scenic Arctic views through the windows.
The SJ night train from Stockholm to Kiruna offers a starting price of 1,125 SEK (£90) for a couchette and 1,695 SEK (£136) for a second-class sleep carriage.
For bookings, visit www.sj.se/en.